[rhodopsin]

Are there any Bronica ETRSi users out there who can give me some help please ?

[Les Meehan]

What do you need to know?

[Dabhand16]

I don't know if I can still be classified as a user as my ETRSi has not seen the light of day for a considerable time. However, if you tell us what you need, I'll do my best.

[rhodopsin]

Hi Les and Dabhand

I've recently purchased a mint ETRSI and I'm using it more and more. I'm thinking of purchasing a polaroid back to carry out test shot instead of wasting 120 films. So my question is: Is the poloroid film for the Bronica still available and what type do I order.

Also is my idea cost effective seeing as 120 film is not that expensive to purchase (7DAYSHOP) but developing is expensive.

What do you think ???

[Dabhand16]

I would check that you can still get Polaroid film for a Polaroid back first. I've not used one, so can't tell you if the back takes standard Polaroid film or not. Maybe Les will know.

I imagine that you would be able to get hold of a Polaroid back - but they were probably not so common for the ETRS as ones to fit the SQ 6x6.

Why not shoot some black and white and transparency film? You can process these easily yourself with a developing tank. That way you can hone your skills without spending a fortune.

[rhodopsin]

Originally Posted by Dabhand16

I would check that you can still get Polaroid film for a Polaroid back first. I've not used one, so can't tell you if the back takes standard Polaroid film or not. Maybe Les will know.

I imagine that you would be able to get hold of a Polaroid back - but they were probably not so common for the ETRS as ones to fit the SQ 6x6.

Why not shoot some black and white and transparency film? You can process these easily yourself with a developing tank. That way you can hone your skills without spending a fortune.

Thanks Graham

Hopefully someone will be able to help with the polaroid back question. The back can be obtained for the ETRSi but I'm unsure if the polaroid film is available and if it is I would imagine it to be rather expensive.

I have just purchase my dark room basin kit and will be venturing into the DIY processing.

Richard

[Les Meehan]

Most 6x6 camera polaroid backs use 669 (colour prints), 667 (BW prints, very nice tones and sharpness), and 665 (BW print with neg). These films are still available but it is not a cheap option for doing tests/previews.

Most pros use polaroid tests as both a visual check on lighting/composition and to show clients (who are usually visually incompetent). But of course the polaroid is charged to the client. For hobby use it is probably a better idea to master your exposure technique using a few rolls of film (see my website Zone2Tone for full info on getting the best quality and testing methods) and then have confidence in the field.

OTOH, polaroid prints are now considered an art form in their own right, especially using image transfer or manipulated surface techniques, and so you may want to consider this aspect.

Also, the negatives produced by the 665 p/n (pos/neg) film are suberb! The negative film is very sharp and has good tonal qualities and there are photographers using it as their main BW film. Two points, the 665 print is faster in speed than the neg part and so when exposing for the film neg it is usual to give an extra stop of exposure more than for a good print (the prints are also beautiful when done well). Secondly, the negative part needs to be fixed using a sodium sulphite bath (I think it is a 2% solution for 10 mins, long time since used it) followed by hardening in either a hardening fixer (hypam) or simply hardening solution (the neg is very soft and easily damaged without hardening). Many photographers using this medium seriously do a test exposure for the print to check the image and then a second shot with the extra stop exposure for the final neg. The neg is then placed in a tub of the sodium sulphite solution and then washed thoroughly as for normal film.

Polaroid is great fun and, like digital, the instant feedback is great for learning/teaching technique and visual perception to newbies. Also, the prints are strictly originals (which is why the Art world like them more than traditional prints, jumped up wussies!).

The Ansel Adams book 'Polaroid Land Photography' is the bible on the subject and worth getting if you want to get into it more.

Let us know if you need more info. And if you use it post some scans.

Les

[rhodopsin]

Originally Posted by Les Meehan

Most 6x6 camera polaroid backs use 669 (colour prints), 667 (BW prints, very nice tones and sharpness), and 665 (BW print with neg). These films are still available but it is not a cheap option for doing tests/previews.

Most pros use polaroid tests as both a visual check on lighting/composition and to show clients (who are usually visually incompetent). But of course the polaroid is charged to the client. For hobby use it is probably a better idea to master your exposure technique using a few rolls of film (see my website Zone2Tone for full info on getting the best quality and testing methods) and then have confidence in the field.

OTOH, polaroid prints are now considered an art form in their own right, especially using image transfer or manipulated surface techniques, and so you may want to consider this aspect.

Also, the negatives produced by the 665 p/n (pos/neg) film are suberb! The negative film is very sharp and has good tonal qualities and there are photographers using it as their main BW film. Two points, the 665 print is faster in speed than the neg part and so when exposing for the film neg it is usual to give an extra stop of exposure more than for a good print (the prints are also beautiful when done well). Secondly, the negative part needs to be fixed using a sodium sulphite bath (I think it is a 2% solution for 10 mins, long time since used it) followed by hardening in either a hardening fixer (hypam) or simply hardening solution (the neg is very soft and easily damaged without hardening). Many photographers using this medium seriously do a test exposure for the print to check the image and then a second shot with the extra stop exposure for the final neg. The neg is then placed in a tub of the sodium sulphite solution and then washed thoroughly as for normal film.

Polaroid is great fun and, like digital, the instant feedback is great for learning/teaching technique and visual perception to newbies. Also, the prints are strictly originals (which is why the Art world like them more than traditional prints, jumped up wussies!).

The Ansel Adams book 'Polaroid Land Photography' is the bible on the subject and worth getting if you want to get into it more.

Let us know if you need more info. And if you use it post some scans.

Les

Brilliant Reply - Just the ticket - Thanks

[rhodopsin]

Does anyone know how to set up an ETRSi for timed exposure

I've followed the instructions as per the manual - but it doesn't seem to work

Do I have a fault or is there something I'm missing

[Dabhand16]

Jeeeze - I can't remember how long ago I last did this!

I think it has a mechanical timer, so it is effectively a tiny clockwork movement that winds when it is set, and unwinds over about 5/6 seconds.

If I'm right, there is plenty to go wrong, the worst case being a broken spring. More likely is that the mechamism might have siezed due to lack of use. Not sure if there is any way of freeing it up, might be a service job.

A word of warning is to try not to leave the camera unused for a long time, as the leaves of the shutter can also get 'sticky', and this will lead to unreliable shutter speeds as the leaves slow down in their cycle. I also never used to leave the shutter cocked so the springs were not left in tension.

[Les Meehan]

Isn't there a small screw on the lens that you unlock for timed exposures? The shutter doesn't close at the end of the time until you wind the film on to the next frame. This is not usually a problem for camera shake but if in doubt cover the lens first to stop light entering.

My RB67 is similar in that on timed exposures you close the shutter by slight pressure on the rewind lever. Never been a problem either.

Cheers

Les

[rhodopsin]

Originally Posted by Les Meehan

Isn't there a small screw on the lens that you unlock for timed exposures? The shutter doesn't close at the end of the time until you wind the film on to the next frame. This is not usually a problem for camera shake but if in doubt cover the lens first to stop light entering.

My RB67 is similar in that on timed exposures you close the shutter by slight pressure on the rewind lever. Never been a problem either.

Cheers

Les

Yes I've changed the lens to "T" from "A" using the grub screw.

If the shutter remains open the lens cap sound a good option.

Thanks I'll try it.