Shutter speeds and sunlight

ray · 11-05-2008, 18:26

I have been trying to take a raging stream today, after one hell of a storm,i wanted the milky effect, but it was bright and sunny and i couldn't get a slow shutter speed, is it me or can it be done, i first tried in TV mode then Manual

i nearly threw the cameras in the stream in frustration

thank's...Ray

**Dabhand16** · 11-05-2008, 18:33

Neutral density filter will do the trick. You can get 2x or 4x commonly which will cover most situations.

Did you try reducing the ISO?

VikingPhotography · 11-05-2008, 18:37

To get the flowing water effect, you need to set a long shutter speed and possibly a small aperture as well e.g. f/16 and 1/5 second at ISO 100.

The problem you're facing is that, when the shutter is open for such a long time in bright sunlight, you end up with vastly overexposed shots - since there's so much light flooding the sensor.

Your solution is to use a neutral density filter to block out more of the light that would otherwise register on your camera. Think of this kind of filter as sunglasses for your lens. ND filters are graded by stops i.e. one stop, two stops, three stops etc.

For more info, see the Wikipedia article here

ray · 11-05-2008, 18:41

Thanks guy's i had a set of nds with me grr i thought they were for stopping the sky blowing never mind i will get the situation again and i will know

**Dabhand16** · 11-05-2008, 19:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by ray

Thanks guy's i had a set of nds with me grr i thought they were for stopping the sky blowing never mind i will get the situation again and i will know

Ray - you are not wrong there - but the ones for stopping the sky from blowing are graduated ND's.

The ones we are talking about are not graduated, they are the same all over.

Chilliman · 11-05-2008, 19:42

I've not done any milky water shots so forgive me for butting into the thread, could Ray's situation have been solved by a CP if nd grads are not available or would you still not get a slow enough ss ?

ray · 11-05-2008, 19:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chilliman

I've not done any milky water shots so forgive me for butting into the thread, could Ray's situation have been solved by a CP if nd grads are not available or would you still not get a slow enough ss ?

Ive done it in woods ie Ingleton falls no problem but full on daylight i got this problem

ray · 11-05-2008, 19:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dabhand16

Ray - you are not wrong there - but the ones for stopping the sky from blowing are graduated ND's.

The ones we are talking about are not graduated, they are the same all over.

So what do i ask for graham i will get some tomorrow

**Dabhand16** · 11-05-2008, 19:50

I think a CP might have limited effectiveness in this situation if the angle of the sun was in the optimum alignment, but not as good as an ND.

It also depends on the composition of the subject too.

ray · 11-05-2008, 19:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dabhand16

Ray - you are not wrong there - but the ones for stopping the sky from blowing are graduated ND's.

The ones we are talking about are not graduated, they are the same all over.

i will get some tomorrow graham what do i ask for

**Dabhand16** · 11-05-2008, 20:04

Just ND filters Ray. You might be able to buy a set of 2x, 3x and 4x, and get a better price. You can use them in combination if necessary, but if you get the above strengths. you would probably be able to cover any situation with just one, which is better than combining them - fewer things between your lens and the subject.

ray · 11-05-2008, 20:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dabhand16

Just ND filters Ray. You might be able to buy a set of 2x, 3x and 4x, and get a better price. You can use them in combination if necessary, but if you get the above strengths. you would probably be able to cover any situation with just one, which is better than combining them - fewer things between your lens and the subject.

Ok thanks graham will do...Ray

Dutchie · 11-05-2008, 20:53

I got a nd8 filter. Stupid, cause you only use them when it is very bright ie sunshine on snowy mountain. Anyway, i've tried mine today and i could see that i definitely needed a 2 or a 4. Too much shadows and dark bits on my photo's. But hey we'll learn one day

chrisa · 12-05-2008, 10:51

Not sure from reading your original post whether or not you set you lens to the highest numbered F stop on your camera/lens (eg F22 F32). As previously mentioned also use the lowest ISO you can get.

I've also found you can substitute a polariser filter in place of an ND if you've forgotten to bring it along, that will also gain you a couple of F stops. To achieve the blurred water effect you want the longest shutter speed possible, so if shooting raw you may also get away with a small amount of exposure compensation too.

orangepeel · 12-05-2008, 13:09

Another option I use is a linear polariser stacked on a circular polariser. It's gives a poor mans Singh-Ray and produces a variable ND (not to be confused with a graduated ND)

With this I can get up to about 2-5 seconds exposure on very bright midday sunshine. You can do much longer, i.e. 10 - 20s, but a very strong blue colour cast is evident when you push it too far.

11-05-2008, 18:26	#1 (permalink)
ray Banned Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,017	Shutter speeds and sunlight I have been trying to take a raging stream today, after one hell of a storm,i wanted the milky effect, but it was bright and sunny and i couldn't get a slow shutter speed, is it me or can it be done, i first tried in TV mode then Manuali nearly threw the cameras in the stream in frustrationthank's...Ray

11-05-2008, 18:33	#2 (permalink)
Dabhand16 Pixalo Crew Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Dunstable Bedfordshire UK Posts: 8,979	Re: Shutter speeds and sunlight Neutral density filter will do the trick. You can get 2x or 4x commonly which will cover most situations. Did you try reducing the ISO?

11-05-2008, 18:37	#3 (permalink)
VikingPhotography Forum Regular Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Just south of Glasgow, Scotland Posts: 788	Re: Shutter speeds and sunlight To get the flowing water effect, you need to set a long shutter speed and possibly a small aperture as well e.g. f/16 and 1/5 second at ISO 100. The problem you're facing is that, when the shutter is open for such a long time in bright sunlight, you end up with vastly overexposed shots - since there's so much light flooding the sensor. Your solution is to use a neutral density filter to block out more of the light that would otherwise register on your camera. Think of this kind of filter as sunglasses for your lens. ND filters are graded by stops i.e. one stop, two stops, three stops etc. For more info, see the Wikipedia article here

11-05-2008, 18:41	#4 (permalink)
ray Banned Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,017	Re: Shutter speeds and sunlight Thanks guy's i had a set of nds with me grr i thought they were for stopping the sky blowing never mind i will get the situation again and i will know

11-05-2008, 19:42	#6 (permalink)
Chilliman Getting Comfy Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Scotland Posts: 153	Re: Shutter speeds and sunlight I've not done any milky water shots so forgive me for butting into the thread, could Ray's situation have been solved by a CP if nd grads are not available or would you still not get a slow enough ss ?

11-05-2008, 19:50	#9 (permalink)
Dabhand16 Pixalo Crew Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Dunstable Bedfordshire UK Posts: 8,979	Re: Shutter speeds and sunlight I think a CP might have limited effectiveness in this situation if the angle of the sun was in the optimum alignment, but not as good as an ND. It also depends on the composition of the subject too.

11-05-2008, 20:04	#11 (permalink)
Dabhand16 Pixalo Crew Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Dunstable Bedfordshire UK Posts: 8,979	Re: Shutter speeds and sunlight Just ND filters Ray. You might be able to buy a set of 2x, 3x and 4x, and get a better price. You can use them in combination if necessary, but if you get the above strengths. you would probably be able to cover any situation with just one, which is better than combining them - fewer things between your lens and the subject.

11-05-2008, 20:53	#13 (permalink)
Dutchie Been here a while Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lancashire Posts: 494	Re: Shutter speeds and sunlight I got a nd8 filter. Stupid, cause you only use them when it is very bright ie sunshine on snowy mountain. Anyway, i've tried mine today and i could see that i definitely needed a 2 or a 4. Too much shadows and dark bits on my photo's. But hey we'll learn one day

12-05-2008, 10:51	#14 (permalink)
chrisa Been here a while Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 416	Re: Shutter speeds and sunlight Not sure from reading your original post whether or not you set you lens to the highest numbered F stop on your camera/lens (eg F22 F32). As previously mentioned also use the lowest ISO you can get. I've also found you can substitute a polariser filter in place of an ND if you've forgotten to bring it along, that will also gain you a couple of F stops. To achieve the blurred water effect you want the longest shutter speed possible, so if shooting raw you may also get away with a small amount of exposure compensation too.

12-05-2008, 13:09	#15 (permalink)
orangepeel Forum Regular Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 1,490	Re: Shutter speeds and sunlight Another option I use is a linear polariser stacked on a circular polariser. It's gives a poor mans Singh-Ray and produces a variable ND (not to be confused with a graduated ND) With this I can get up to about 2-5 seconds exposure on very bright midday sunshine. You can do much longer, i.e. 10 - 20s, but a very strong blue colour cast is evident when you push it too far.