[daveyuk]

As the motorsport season is almost on us I thought I'd put this guide together I've based it on Brands Hatch but it should the same what ever race circuit you go to you'll have to make a few adjustments but I hope it helps.

Brands Hatch.

As I go to Brands Hatch quite a lot I thought I’d put this little guide together for some of the best spots for good Motorsport photography.

Brands Hatch map
http://www.motorsportvision.co.uk/br...ands-hatch.asp
You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to veiw this map

Adobe Acrobat Reader download link
http://www.adobe.com

The Brabham Straight (well almost straight)
Get as close to the fence as you can if you want a close ups of the cars/grid girls. Also remember your angles walk towards Clark Curve to get a long shot of the grid line up before the green light and tyre smoke. Walk toward Paddock hill bend and look back towards the grid for a long shot and the race start.

Paddock Hill Bend.
Try to stand were the fence is at it’s lowest point so you can shoot over it, but also remember you can stand further back as the ground rises at the rear. If you can stand as near to the middle area so you can see the cars/bikes/trucks coming down through Paddock but you can also turn to your left to watch them as they go up Hailwood Hill. Another good spot is up close to the footbridge on Hailwood and look back towards Paddock as you can get some very good shots of the cars/bikes/trucks coming down through and up towards you.

Hailwood Hill (infield)
You can cross the footbridge and turn to your right and walk a bit on the infield of Hailwood Hill so shoots from Paddock and up towards you are an option plus you can also look up towards Druids Bend with the bridge giving you a framing. Or you can stand between the footbridge and Druids and look down towards the footbridge and get shoots of the cars/bikes/trucks coming up Hailwood Hill.

Druids Bend (infield)
If you can stand near the gate and look slightly to your left as this will give you good shots of the cars/bikes/trucks as they approach Druids Bends as if the drivers gets a little wrong then you’ll have tyre smoke as they lock up due to being a little late on the brakes. Panning here is always a good idea as if the driver is way too late on the brakes, a trip into the kitty litter is on the cards!! Great photos to be had at this point.

Tip 1. Always have your camera setup in continuous mode so you can pan and let your camera run at the same time.
Tip 2 a short lenses is a must here nothing more than an 85mm as you close to the track and there’s no fence to worry about.
Tip 3. Camera setup should be in Shutter priority mode.

Try to stand on the apex of Druids bend and look to your left the tree will be in your way but that’s nothing to worry about, start your panning from the tree and pan from left to right single shots can be had here of the cars/bikes/trucks also over taking shoots are also on the cards.
Continuous running here is always a good idea as you will always get one or two drivers/riders who think they can take Druids Bend a little faster than everyone else so spins and trips to the kitty litter are very much on the cards even more so if it’s raining or the track is wet!!

Druids Bend (outside the fence)
There is a break in the fence after the marshall’s hut it’s nut very wide so two maybe three togs can stand there and get some long shots of the cars/bikes/trucks going round Druids Bend. If you choose you can set yourself up on a ladder looking over the fence and down Hailwood Hill, this will also give you a panning option. I wouldn’t anything longer than a 300mm lens here as it will give length on the approach but also give you some flexibility for panning as they go round Druids. I f you choose to shoot through the fence use nothing longer than around a 300mm lenses also remember that when it’s busy it gets very very crowded around the outside of Druids so take care you can use a mono pod but again the use of a tripod is a very large NO.
Walk down the straight between Druids Bend and Graham Hill Bend you’ll find a large mound which you can stand on a look back up towards the exit of Druids Bend as this will give some good shots if the driver over cooks it on the exit giving you some spin outs and broadside slids. A 200/300mm lens should be more than enough here.

Graham Hill Bend
This is a long (ish) bend you can get up close but it’s not a good idea as you’ll a) be shooting through the fence and b) cars/bikes/truck will be going round at a fairly fast speed. You’re far better off standing on the South Bank as this will give you some height so your be shooting over the fence and you can pan as the cars/bikes/trucks go past. You’ll need a 300/400 or maybe a 500mm lens here as the distance between you and the track is quite long. Drivers/riders that over do it on the approach to Graham Hill Bend will more than likely spin out on to the grass area so continuous shooting is a must.

Surtees (indy)
This when the race is on the indy track format is a quick left/right and again if the driver/rider is late on the brakes a spin off on to the grass areas is on the cards. There is a grassy mound that you can stand on for panning shots, look out for the brave drivers/riders as this is an over taking area so some times continuous shooting is a good idea. If you’ve got a long lens around a 400/500mm this will give you the length to follow the action around Mclaren’s and into Clark Curve good shots of overtaking can be had on this long sweeping curve plus cars and truck will at some point try to exchange body paint with each as the drivers fight for the racing line for a good fast exit from Clark Curve into the Brabham Straight. Spins, slides, skids are all on the cards in the wet or damp track conditions.

Surtees (GP)
Again standing on the grassy mound will give good panning shots of the cars/bikes/trucks as they come round Surtees and into Pilgrims Drop, the brave drivers/riders will chance their arm for an overtake here of slower/backmakers. A short to medium length lens is a must here as you are rather close to the action. In wet conditions spins, slides, skids are very much on the cards as is body paint exchanging as the racing line is rather tight here.

Pilgrims Drop into Hawthorn Hill (GP)
Just after the footbridge round to your left is a small area from which you can get some long shots of the cars/bikes/trucks as they come under the bridge from Pilgrims Drop it’s very fast here and overtaking is about all you can hope for, in the wet spray will give an added extra to the shot giving a bit of drama to it. Something like a 70-200mm with or without a 2xtc is more than enough for this area.

Tip 1. The footpath that runs around the inside of the track in the dry is fine however in the wet as you have to go up hill then down hill is very very slippery under foot so a stout pair of walking boots is a must. Please be very careful round this area in the wet.

Tip 2. If you have your monopod setup you may want to use it as a walking aid when going up or coming down this hill to give you more balance and control

Hawthorn Bend (GP)
Fast and sweeping panning shots and if there are two drivers who are not giving way then continuous shooting is a must as a crash/spin out is on the cards. In the wet spray will make for some very dramatic shots. A medium lens again something like a 70-200mm lens will work very nicely here. There’s no high fencing so there’s nothing in your way.
Looking to your left will give you some very good approach shots even better if there’s a bunch of cars coming your way.

Tip In the wet mainly the drivers will try to straight line this bend as much as they can so mud spraying up will add to your shot also if all the cars do this then a rut will form giving the cars a bit of a bump on exit so a possible spin or slide may happen.

Westfield Bend (GP)
Yet another long fast sweeping bend leading into Dingle Dell, again no fencing to get in your way, panning is your best option here maybe an over take or two but only if the driver/rider is very brave, looking to your left will give you approach shots as they come from Derek Minter Straight. Something around a 300 or 400mm lens for the approach shots but for the close shots nothing more than a 200mm lens. Drivers/riders who leave the braking until the very last minute will give you tyre smoke skids crashes and a trip to the kitty litter are all on the cards here.

Sheene Curve (GP)
This is the last of the sweeping curves/bends on the GP track as with Westfield if the driver/rider over cooks it it’s a trip to the kitty litter, however the use of a medium long lens will give you some good approach from Dingle Dell, and exit shots down to Stirlings Bend. You can use a short lens for the close shot as they go through the curve so you have plenty of options to choose from.

Stirlings Bend (GP)
After all the long sweeping fast bends like hawthorns, Westfield and Sheene this is a very slow tight bend to the right overtaking here is very much on the cards as is the out braking moves which if the driver/rider gets it right will pay off giving you he chance of some very stunning shots, if it goes wrong then it’s into the kitty litter and spectacular shots for you. A short to medium lens is a must here as is continuous shooting just in case it all goes very wrong. I wouldn’t use anything longer than a 70-200mm.

Clearways into Clark Curve.
Not much chance of the long approach shots here as the bridge gets in the way so a medium lens is a must here as the approach is very fast so the drivers/riders will be trying to out brake each over, as the curve tightens into Clarke body paint exchanging bumps, nudges and the odd pushing will all come into play here so be ready to go continuous as some good shots can be had here, best place to be anywhere high giving you your best chances plus giving you the best overall view. I would my 80-400mm lens here as it gives a good flexible range of length.

Camera setup
Continuous shooting mode/option
Shutter priority
Aperture priority only for the start of a race looking up Brabham Straight.

Lenses
70-200mm + 2x Tc
70-300mm
100-300mm
100-400mm
170-500mm

The 400/500mm lens only come into play a few times so they are not so important. A 300mm lens with either a 2x tc or 1.4x tc would more than ok.

A mono pod is a must but leave your tripod at home.

All of what’s in this guide can be used at over tracks/venues you’ll just need to make adjustments here and there.

Panning,
Keep it smooth and slow there’s always plenty to practice on as the track marshall’s cars and recovery trucks go round after each race has finished they are good practice targets.

I'm sure to have forgoten something.....

[stepheno]

Excellent write up davey. Nothing better than tips from those who do it I've never tried shooting motorsport but after reading that I'll definitely give it a go.

PS do you really take all those lenses?

[daveyuk]

Do I take all those lenses erm in a word no
All I take is the following
Sigma 10-20
Sigma 70-200
Sigma 100-300
Sigma 2x TC
Canon 17-85
That little lot just about covers everything (I hope)